2 CR questions

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Splitshot
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2 CR questions

Post by Splitshot » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:10 pm

CR questions

1) Bass reports usually include the weight of the fish. How are they weighed? I've only seen hook type scales. Seems like hanging a fish by it's gill plate might be harmful?

2) Gulping trout. I bait fish a lot for trout and I'd like to let the little ones go but more often than not, the only visible part of the hook is the eye, at the back of the throat. I tried going from a size 8 to a size 4 but that didn't help. Should I go larger? Can anyone recommend a good hook degorger?

I'd like to thank whoever it was that posted they switched to all barbless hooks. They said they didn't suffer much loss and I've found the same to be true.:salut:

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Amx
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Amx » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:17 pm

Weigh bass by the gill plate. Never heard of it hurting them. Or you can get an 'Equalizer Scale' model # MS-1, or equivalent. Mine weighs to 200 ounces which is 12 lbs.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Splitshot » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:28 pm

Thanks Amx

I thought it might be a dumb question but I just started bass fishing last year.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Amx » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:32 pm

The only dumb questain is the one that isn't asked.

Or if I say otherwise.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Splitshot » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:54 pm

"A person who asks a question seems like a fool for a moment, but a person who doesn't ask a question is a fool forever." ... Works for me[biggrin]


Now about the trout question8-[ ...

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Amx » Sat Jun 05, 2010 7:56 pm

I know nothing about trout. But there are hook disgorgers that work, expecialy if the hook is barbless. Try Bass Pro Shops or Gabella's.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by FishingFool » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:08 pm

For trout fishing. I always find pinching the barb down or barbless with needle-nose pliers to work the best or something close to that small diameter size. Grab the area around the eye of the hook and give it a rotation and it comes right out.

I've tried several of those hook removal devices and they seem to do more harm than good. Not to mention, pliers are much more versatile.
Last edited by Anonymous on Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Marc Martyn
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Marc Martyn » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:35 pm

Splitshot wrote: CR questions
1) Bass reports usually include the weight of the fish. How are they weighed? I've only seen hook type scales. Seems like hanging a fish by it's gill plate might be harmful?
I have a wooden teardrop net that I use (see avatar photo to left). I keep the fish in the net and hook the scale to the eye bolt on the handle of the net with the scale and weigh both. I then deduct the weight of the wet net (about 8 oz.) from the total. That way the fish is not handled.
Last edited by Anonymous on Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Splitshot
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Splitshot » Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:51 pm

I have a wooden teardrop net that I use (see avatar photo to left). I keep the fish in the net and hook the scale to the eye bolt on the handle of the net with the scale and weigh both. I then deduct the weight of the wet net (about 8 oz.) from the total. That way the fish is not handled.

That makes total sense.

Thanks!
Last edited by Anonymous on Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by G-Man » Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:22 pm

If you plan to release trout, don't still fish. Cast spinners, spoons or troll, otherwise they usually end up swallowing the bait. I also use the system that Marc mentioned. I weight the fish in the net with my X-Tools digital scale and then deduct the weight of the net from the total. If you are planning to catch and release trout, be sure to use a knotless net. It is a good idea to get one anyway as there are plenty of areas that now require them.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Matt » Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:06 pm

Hemostats trump pliers 100 to 1 for hook removal on delicate and small fishies such as trout. Pick them up at a nursing/surgical supply store or pay the extra bucks and get some at a local tackle shop. They honestly remove hooks more efficiently than anything else I have ever used before.

As for the swallowing problem I tend to just steer clear of powerbait. Slip bobber/worm combo or slip bobber/worm/corn works miracles on trout and is an extremely versatile rig. I usually just wait and watch as they take their first few nibbles then AS SOON as the bobber dives completely out of view, WAMMMO, hook set and fish on :cheers: . Most of the time if you set the hook on the first dive you will lip hook them and not allow them to fully swallow the bait.

I have only used powerbait maybe 2 times in the last 5 years and my catch rates have not decreased.... quite possibly increased with the slip bobber technique. An added bonus is all those fish that see powerbait rigs 14" off the bottom DAY IN and DAY OUT don't usually see slip bobber rigs and may prove more willing to bite on a new presentation.

If you are dead set on using powerbait just use the same rig (slip bobber) and attach a tiny split shot about 1" above the hook then add your powerbait. This allows you to fish floating bait without it twisting up around your leader and making a mess.
Last edited by Anonymous on Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by MrLucky » Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:51 pm

Another advantage of not using bait is that released fish don't count towards your limit.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by fishaholictaz » Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:11 am

I use size 4 hooks and float crawlers with them. I end up keeping 3 or 4 fish a year that are hooked all the way down. If you are using a crawler floated the tail of the worm goes down the throat and the hook usually catches in the corner of the mouth.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Outjack » Sun Jun 06, 2010 3:52 pm

I agree with Matt. Hemostats do work the best to get the hook out of a delicate mouth.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Gringo Pescador » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:07 pm

One of the things you will always see hanging from me somewhere is my 6.5" curved forceps. For me, the forceps are by far the best thing I have found to separate fish from hook (and remove barbs), and like others have said - use more spinners, spoons, and jigs!
Last edited by Anonymous on Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by twd22285 » Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:25 pm

If the preceding comments don't help ya out, just cut the line as close to the hook as possible and release them with the hook still in them. If you feel like trying to get a hook out will kill the fish then this is the best option. Fish have really strong enzymes and acid in there systems that will eat through and digest hooks in a relatively short period of time, doing little to no harm to the fish. Think about how many rocks, pebbles, wood, and who knows what else a fish might eat in its lifetime. A hook left in is no prob. Thats why the wdfw suggests this same tactic when a fish must be released and it has swallowed the hook. hope this helps.


tony

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Anglinarcher » Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:52 pm

twd22285 wrote:If the preceding comments don't help ya out, just cut the line as close to the hook as possible and release them with the hook still in them. If you feel like trying to get a hook out will kill the fish then this is the best option. Fish have really strong enzymes and acid in there systems that will eat through and digest hooks in a relatively short period of time, doing little to no harm to the fish. Think about how many rocks, pebbles, wood, and who knows what else a fish might eat in its lifetime. A hook left in is no prob. Thats why the wdfw suggests this same tactic when a fish must be released and it has swallowed the hook. hope this helps.


tony
Tony, I agree with your comments, but I have one suggestion. As time goes on, and as opinions of the day change, the latest belief is that you should cut the line off leaving about 12" or so of line sticking out of the fish's mouth. The theory is that it lays back and holds the hook to the side of the stomach so the fish can feed better until the hook is gone.

Also, avoid stainless steel or plated hooks for bait fishing as these do not rust of dissolve.

PS, I have caught a lot of fish over the years with hooks just about rusted or dissolved, so I know it works.
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RE:2 CR questions

Post by Teal101 » Tue Jun 08, 2010 3:20 pm

Matt wrote:Hemostats trump pliers 100 to 1 for hook removal on delicate and small fishies such as trout. Pick them up at a nursing/surgical supply store or pay the extra bucks and get some at a local tackle shop. They honestly remove hooks more efficiently than anything else I have ever used before.

As for the swallowing problem I tend to just steer clear of powerbait. Slip bobber/worm combo or slip bobber/worm/corn works miracles on trout and is an extremely versatile rig. I usually just wait and watch as they take their first few nibbles then AS SOON as the bobber dives completely out of view, WAMMMO, hook set and fish on :cheers: . Most of the time if you set the hook on the first dive you will lip hook them and not allow them to fully swallow the bait.

I have only used powerbait maybe 2 times in the last 5 years and my catch rates have not decreased.... quite possibly increased with the slip bobber technique. An added bonus is all those fish that see powerbait rigs 14" off the bottom DAY IN and DAY OUT don't usually see slip bobber rigs and may prove more willing to bite on a new presentation.

If you are dead set on using powerbait just use the same rig (slip bobber) and attach a tiny split shot about 1" above the hook then add your powerbait. This allows you to fish floating bait without it twisting up around your leader and making a mess.
Hemostats all the way. I carry two with me every where I go fishing. You can use one to grip the lip of the fish and the other to extract the hook minimizing contact with the fishes body.

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RE:2 CR questions

Post by twd22285 » Wed Jun 09, 2010 8:57 am

anglinarcher,

thanks for the update, i had no idea.

tony

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