do you trailer with canvas up or down

Post by **hlindsay** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 9:06 am

I have a new Hewes 200ET Sea Runner and want to know if most people trailer there boat with the canvas up, or do you have it down and put it up at the water.
My old boat I had to have the canvas down, at over 30mph it flapped around too much.
I brought this boat home to Puyallup from Mt. Vernon with the top up, and is seemed fine. I just am thinking over time it may be hard on it.

Also would or could you put a trailering cover over with the top up?

BARCHASER10 · Post by **BARCHASER10** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 11:40 am

North River Seahawk, usually tow with the top down. Most of the time I don't use the side curtains, so putting the top up is easy. Only exception I do make is when I moor the boat at Everett for 3-4 months. Putting on the side and back curtains is kind of a hassle so I do all that when the boat is in my drive way and then I tow it to Everett.

hewesfisher · Post by **hewesfisher** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 11:57 am

Trailer mine with it up except when temps get much below 30°. Dealer told me it was safe to do at speeds up to 60. I've logged a lot of miles on it at 60mph with the canvas up and no issues at all.

Post by **Larry3215** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:47 pm

Ive always been told to leave it down to reduce wear and tear on the seams and snaps due to flapping at hi speeds. Ive had tarps and covers tear up too many times while towing/traveling and don't want to risk my top.

I suppose if it is nice and tight your risk is much lower, but if the top fabric doesn't stay tight it will flap and wear over time.

Post by **Bodofish** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 1:15 pm

I only tow mine with the top up but the frame is welded and I normally have the boat cover on it.

No rocks on the windows.

NorseNW · Post by **NorseNW** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 7:43 am

I have the same rig. I played the game of towing with top down and than putting it back up at the ramp. I tow with the top up for local trips. When I head up to Sekiu (6 hour) drive I drop the top down to reduce wear and tear. There is no doubt it causes more wear on the fabric but nothing lasts forever.

The other thing I noticed (especially when it is below 50 degrees) when I would get to the ramp and put the top up is I need to do a lot of stretching of the fabric to get it on. When the top is off it kind of shrinks and doesn't hold its memory very well.

I have the luxury of keeping my in a shop so I leave the entire top (top, side, back curtain) on and tow it that way. I've read a few things that suggest towing it with all the parts on to reduce fatigue. Not sure that matters but it works for me - so far.........

hewesfisher · Post by **hewesfisher** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 9:18 am

hewesfisher wrote:Trailer mine with it up except when temps get much below 30°. Dealer told me it was safe to do at speeds up to 60. I've logged a lot of miles on it at 60mph with the canvas up and no issues at all.

I should have added, for me, "top up" means side and drop curtains too. I've made a bunch of 160mi round trips to Roosevelt this way with no ill effect.

Post by **hlindsay** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:21 pm

Thanks for all the help. The dealer said it was Ok, and I see other boats on the road with tops up. I wanted to know how it is working for other people. It is nice to see that people with the same or similar boats are not having problems with the tops. I lean toward having it up for local and down or covered for the long trips just so it will last a little longer. I have to store it with the top off due to my neighborhood rules. It can not be visible from the street.
With the thread about boat covers in mind I may call East Side Tent and talk to them.

I have had to replace glass on the boat from a rock strike on the road.

Post by **Bodofish** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 1:37 pm

I Think in general, the frames now are a far cry from even a few years ago. Much much heavier. You'll be very happy with a cover from eastside. Best accessory I got for my boat.

NorseNW · Post by **NorseNW** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 1:56 pm

I've only had the storage garage for mine for a year. Before that I stored it in the driveway like you and pulled the top off completely every trip and covered with a top gun material cover. It worked very well.

One tip that will help relieve some of the pain in the butt putting it back up - Hang a piece of 2x4 somewhere on the wall in the garage. Take your side curtains and measure out about 1/2 inch longer (center to center) of the holes on the bottom of the side curtains. Put 4 large screws (1/4 thick) into the board and hacksaw off whatever type head they have on them. When you pull your top down for storage hang the side curtains off their respective bolts. This allows the side curtains retain their "memory" and stay separated. If you roll them up with some old sheets between them and throw them on top of the freezer in the garage when you go to put the top back up you will fight those snaps like no buddies business. Especially if it's under 50 degrees. Also some smart person made something called the "top snapper tool". I assure you, you will not regret getting one. Makes getting those darn snaps on much easier.

Post by **hlindsay** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 5:09 pm

Thanks NorseNW I just ordered the top snapper tool. If it works half as good as they show it will be worth it. Of course on Amazon I just had to order some other stuff for fishing so as not to pay shipping.

Right now the canvas is flat on the floor of a spare bedroom. That will have to change and I like your idea.

hewesfisher · Post by **hewesfisher** » Fri Jan 01, 2016 7:40 am

hlindsay wrote:Thanks NorseNW I just ordered the top snapper tool. If it works half as good as they show it will be worth it. Of course on Amazon I just had to order some other stuff for fishing so as not to pay shipping.

Right now the canvas is flat on the floor of a spare bedroom. That will have to change and I like your idea.

How I store mine when I take them off in warm weather. Always with a towel or cloth between the clear windows as they will stick to themselves if you don't. Even storing flat they will shrink and can be a challenge to install later. NorseNW's tip sounds like a winner.

Best method I've found is to install the side and drop curtains before cold weather hits. I'll lay 'em out in the sun in Sept and let the UV do its thing. No hassle install every time.

Oh, that snap tool is worth WAY more than what it costs. I'd never be without one again.

BARCHASER10 · Post by **BARCHASER10** » Fri Jan 01, 2016 11:22 am

I'll have to get one of those snapper tools! Is this the one?

http://www.amazon.com/Ironwood-Pacific- ... apper+tool" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ed J · Post by **Ed J** » Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:44 pm

Top-Snapper Snap Tool

I'm wondering how it works with cold side curtains

Post by **hlindsay** » Fri Jan 01, 2016 12:45 pm

BARCHASER wrote:I'll have to get one of those snapper tools! Is this the one?

http://www.amazon.com/Ironwood-Pacific- ... apper+tool" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That is what I ordered.

Billm · Post by **Billm** » Fri Jan 01, 2016 10:57 pm

I have the 180 Sportsman and have traveled short distances ( 20 to 150 miles) with the top up, at hi-way speeds. With the three sides up, or not up. If I were to travel much further than 150 miles, I will remove the sides and lower the top. I just don't want to risk it. When I do tow it with the top up, I make sure all the snaps are snapped and all zippers tight. I keep an eye on the top when traveling for any potential issues and always inspect it at any rest/fuel stops. The dealer told me it was OK to travel with the top up as well.

I would like to hear from anyone who has experienced a problem towing with the top and sides up.

Thanks,

hewesfisher · Post by **hewesfisher** » Sat Jan 02, 2016 8:34 am

Ed J wrote:Top-Snapper Snap Tool

I'm wondering how it works with cold side curtains

Works well. I didn't get my side and drop curtains on before it cooled down so had to install them in cool weather. You'll still have to muscle them into position, but without the snap tool it'd be next to impossible without heating them up first.

Post by **kokanee1** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 8:32 am

Alumaweld Stryker 18. I leave the top up on short trips but for long one the top goes down. I did make an extra supports that go between the top of the windshield and the first bow of the canopy. These are easy to install with quick pins. I purchased the hardware and aluminum tubing from Harbor marine in Everett. This really helps support the canopy when up at highway speeds. No bow on the fabric above the windshield and also stops a lot of the shaking.

Bogey · Post by **Bogey** » Fri Jan 08, 2016 4:54 pm

Just ordered that snap tool - man, it looks slick!!!! Love learning stuff from these forums - thank you!

Post by **Hunter757** » Sat Jan 09, 2016 8:15 am

I run mine up all the time for now. When I ran over to the east side 200 mile trip each way and I had the full canvas on and rear sleep canvas on as well. No issues but I did have my top restitched by a local guy last year as when I got the boat used it was coming apart at the seams on the door flap. This was from sitting on saltwater all summer long for years with no use and in the elements, the boat never traveled more then 5 miles on the road any given trip.

I say as long as you have very good supports and it designed for it then leave it up. Most older boats have the cheap round rods that don't supply enough support in my opinion and should be in the down position for long trips and short. YMMV.

Northwest Fishing Reports

do you trailer with canvas up or down

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