question on boat that's been sitting for 8-10 years

[tluedeke]

Getting ready to get my Grandfather's boat up and going again, after having sat there for 8-10 years. The boat is a double-hulled fiberglass boat, and has been covered up for the time period.

The trailer tires will need to be replaced, and the bearing checked for compromise. The trailer metal will also be checked for integrity against corrosion (it was used in saltwater 10 years ago, although always washed down thoroughly afterwards). The primary motor (a 15 hp Mercury) has been sitting this whole time - I plan on taking it in to the shop to be checked for crud deposition, etc...

Any thoughts on what else I should be aware of??? This is my first boat, so I want to make sure this is done right....

- TPL

[Augwen]

You need to check all the wiring as well. Check for corrosion at the connection points. Might have to put on new ends.

[AJ's Dad]

You will probably get a lot of suggestions and this one might sound trivial but after 10 years the rubber in the plug may have hardened and cracked. It only takes a minute to pull it out and give it a look. It's a cheap investment to buy a new one but it could ba a bad experience if it's bad and you don't replace it.

It sounds like it's a smaller boat. My guess is an open row boat type. If that's the case, you may want to check the intergity of the oars. They could be dried out and cracked, not very strong. If an oar is bad, one good hard pull could break it in half.

Just a couple of thoughts.

[MotoBoat]

You need to check all the wiring as well. Check for corrosion at the connection points. Might have to put on new ends.

And or a replacement light set and wiring for the trailer. Your going to want to empty and inspect the inside of the outboard motor gas tank. Old gas must be disposed of. Sediment and water are likely in there too! Fuel line and primer bulb connected to the tank are likely toast. Fittings on either end of the fuel line have rubber o-rings in them. They go bad. Bend the fuel hose and check for cracks and how soft that hose is. The primer bulb should squeeze super easy, as this age's the rubber gets stiff, really stiff.

I would attempt to start the engine by first doing the following. Empty the portable gas tank. Peak inside the filler hole, looking for sediment and clean that out. Put in some fresh gas, with proper 2 stroke oil mixture, if a 2-stroke motor. Replace the primer bulb, fuel line and fuel fittings at each end of the fuel line (this comes as a complete kit for your brand of motor). Remove spark plugs, squirt a little 2-stroke oil inside the spark plug holes. Give the starter cord a couple of pulls, before installing new spark plugs, that are gapped correctly. Connect the fuel line, squeeze the primer bulb a couple of times or 5. Until the primer bulb firms up, pull the choke knob out, turn the tiller handle to the start position and give er a rip. Attempt to start it. It may run fine, not very well or not at all. Most times fuel, air, and spark are all that is needed and little outboard motors run fine.

You may now a lot or a little about mechanics. But a easy little project and learning experience about simple, basic outboard motor, and fuel system maintenance. If not within your comfort zone, then pay the hourly shop rate.

[Southpaw]

I also would not hesitate to replace the fuel tank if it is of the metal variety, you dont need rust particles in you motor. I think I might also keep the trailer backed in the water for a few minutes to have time to check for hidden problems also known as leaks. Good luck and be carefull with your "new" boat.

[tluedeke]

Thanks for all the replies - these were great feedback. I hadn't thought of the wiring harnesses, but that's a very good point - those would probably crack and be shot after a few years of exposure to the weather. I will definitely check that out.

It is a 14'-16' boat (I don't recall specifically, but probably 16'), so it has always been run with the Mercury outboard or the electric trolling motors. The oars were always an emergency thing, and have been garaged. I'll take a look at them, but they should be ok.

The motors and tanks have been garaged the whole time, so other then the rotted gas deposition or internal rusting issues, it might be ok. I'll check that out, and probably go ahead and replace the hoses/bulbs on the thing - that is a small expense. Even just replacing the tank wouldn't be a terrible thing to have to do. I'm most worried about the motor, and whatever crud has deposited in it. I'll take a shot at it, given the advice you guys gave, and take it into the shop if it doesn't work.

[Bodofish]

Buy a new battery and a new tank and hoses and run a stiff mix of sea foam through it. Take her out on a few short shake down cruises, maybe with someone that can take their boat too. Not paying the tow swrvice is a wonderful thing.

[MotoBoat]

Something else to consider. Most times the motor will be run until the carb is out of fuel after using the boat for the day. Some boat owners do, some don't. You will need to drain any old gas out of the carburetor bowl. If the carb bowl is not easily accessible. You might have to squirt the gas oil mix directly into the carb to run the motor and force fresh gas to mix with the gas that may or may not be inside the bowl. Eventually the old gas would be diluted with fresh, and run through the motor. Until all old gas is flushed through the motor, the motor will run rough, cough, may die and need restarting. Bun should run much better on fresh gas.

[hewesfisher]

I'll echo what others have said and add these comments. I would not run that motor until you've replaced lower unit oil and the water pump impeller. Like other's have said, rubber deteriorates from sitting, and the water pump impeller is plain old rubber. Not only will it have deteriorated, but the vanes having been in the same position for 8 - 10 years will have taken a permanent set. It turns with every rotation of the crank, and if there's no water, there's no cooling.

The lower unit oil could have moisture in it just from condensation after sitting all those years. It's cheap, so drain and refill. All you need to do is put a drain pan under the motor, remove the drain plug, then remove the fill plug and let all the gear oil drain out. This also lets you see the condition of the fluid and whether there are any pieces of metal in there. If the fluid is milky, it has moisture contamination. No moisture or bits and pieces, refill the case from the lower drain plug while leaving the upper plug off. Fill from the bottom until fluid just comes out the upper plug hole and quickly attach the lower plug, then install the upper plug. It would also be wise to replace the small gaskets on the back of the plugs.

You don't mention where you're at, but will assume somewhere here in WA. I highly recommend replacing your fuel lines and primer bulb with the low permeation, ethanol safe ones now available. They work with ethanol laced and non-ethanol laced fuel, and if you don't have access to non-ethanol fuel it will save headaches later.

You can run Seafoam, or you can run Merc Quickleen, both will do the job. I would also run some Merc Quickstor in your tank as added insurance against ethanol related issues, it will also keep your fuel fresh. I run them both in my Mercs all the time and 1 ounce each treats 5 gallons of fuel.

Pretty cool you're getting your grandfather's boat on the water again!

[MotoBoat]

A few helpful tips to add when changing lower unit oil, and perhaps easier locating of the fill and vent screws. My first time changing the oil, I was wondering if removing the flat head screws would damage something, because I had never removed them before and was unsure if they were the right screws to remove..LOL!. As mentioned, follow these steps and make one change which is in "CAPS" below. Position oil pan under lower unit and propeller. Locate two large flat head screws. One is above the cavitation plate, which is just above the propeller. The second is at the lowest point of the lower unit and in a horizontal line near the bottom of the propeller. Remove the bottom screw, oil will drain sloooowly, remove the top screw, flow will increase because that is the vent. Let this drain for some time, it is thick and sticks to the internal lower unit gears and housing wall. Place oil nozzle of appropriate oil into bottom drain hole, squeeze or pump oil slowly until oil begins flowing out the upper, vent hole. Here is the trick. LEAVE THE OIL NOZZLE CONNECTED AND INSTALL THE "UPPER" VENT SCREW. This will create vacuum and the oil will not run out as quickly!!! Plus, get the lower screw, positioned in your fingers to put in place. As the oil nozzle is removed with your free hand. Put that bottom screw in with haste!!. I like the pump version, super simple when using thick oil such as lower unit oil. Stuff is like honey.

E-how online may more clearly explain these steps.

lower unit.JPG (53.97 KiB) Viewed 3951 times

[tluedeke]

Yeah, my Grandpa was a passionate fisherman, and one of the best Lake Erie walleye fisherman I ever knew (he got fish when *nobody* else could). He was also a superb Lake Erie yellow perch, Michigan inland lake (bluegill), and Lake Michigan (salmon) fisherman, and my personal hero.

And because he learned the hard way (asking and talking and trying), and left me his boat, it is the least I can do in his memory to fix up his boat and slay fish like he used to!!

[MotoBoat]

Yeah, my Grandpa was a passionate fisherman, and one of the best Lake Erie walleye fisherman I ever knew (he got fish when *nobody* else could). He was also a superb Lake Erie yellow perch, Michigan inland lake (bluegill), and Lake Michigan (salmon) fisherman, and my personal hero.

And because he learned the hard way (asking and talking and trying), and left me his boat, it is the least I can do in his memory to fix up his boat and slay fish like he used to!!

I say, get that Hero's boat out on the water and get after them slimers!